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Roxy said:When we had a lady visits our dog school with her very fearful dog, the trainer asked that she kept the dog leashed and just walked around ignoring the dog, same at home, pop her on a leash tie her to your waste walk around ignoring her no eye contact. He was very persistence that she did not allow the dog to hide. After a few lessons she never returned, she was able to handling the problem herself.
This is called the umbilical cord method. I use it with all of my puppies and new dogs. I would definitely recommend using it.
I just took in a Chihuahua last Monday. He is a severely insecure-dominant with a major fear aggression problem. His owner said that he had not been socialized when he was younger, and then started becoming aggressive toward people. So she "sheltered" him. He stayed inside, never went on walks, and was crated when anyone else was around. The past six months he has now turned his aggression towards his owner and her mother. Therefore, she decided she didn't want him anymore. None of the rescue groups would take him in due to his aggression and the fact that he has drawn blood.
Anyway, I agreed to take in the reincarnate of Satan and see what I could do with him.
His owner told me that his aggression triggers are: anyone trying to pet or pick him up, putting a collar or harness on him, trying to make him walk on a leash, trying to put him in his crate, trying get him out of his crate, going near him when he is eating or chewing on something, trying to bath or groom him, messing with his feet, messing with him when he is sleeping, and other animals.
Once I got him home, I started by dumping him out of his crate and then cornering him to slip a leash over his head while trying not to get bit. I took him outside for a bathroom break. Then I took him back to his kennel for the night. His owner said that Georgie basically lived in his crate; because she was afraid of him. He was terrified to go back in. He turned even more aggressive, but I refused to let him win. He finally went in after biting me 20+ times, and realizing that I wasn't backing off.
The next day I "umbilical corded" him to me, and ignored him. Every time I walked toward him or stepped over him, he would growl and bear his teeth. I just kept on with what I was doing. The only time I corrected him was if he snapped at me or lunged at one the other animals. I also required my husband to ignore Georgie. We did this all day Tuesday and Wednesday. By Thursday, he was craving attention and would jump up in our laps or paw at us. We would just ignore him or brush him off of our laps. We have now had him just over a week, and he is showing very little aggression toward us or the other animals. He is also going with the other dogs on their daily walks, and is doing great.
I am socializing him with other people, by taking him out in public and asking people to ignore him. The same way my husband and I did. This allows him to check out the new people in his own time without feeling threatened by people reaching at him. Once he gets more comfortable with them, I have the person squat or sit down while still ignoring Georgie. Then I have them calmly offer him food or treats, but never try and pet him. Once he gains enough confidence to approach people I have them calmly pet him on the chest and under the chin, never on the head (this can be very threatening). This process has worked very well in the past and is working beautifully with Georgie. In the past week, four new people have pet him without him biting or growling. Three of them were guys, which he supposedly hates.
You said that your puppy is food motivated, I would use this to your advantage. When you go to put her in her room use a stuffed kong or one of the "Premier" food dispensing toys. This will make it more of a positive experience. Also, try putting her away before you start getting ready or start stressing out.